Shooting tethered I am using up the single battery in about 3/4 hrs.
I have a spare so its usually ready in the charger to switch over.
However (occasionally) the switch crashes the pc meaning a re boot while everyone kicks about looking anxious and the client says something pointed about time costing money. (Using capture 1)
So 3 choices I am considering -
1 The wifi adapter does not appear that expensive (£40) but how heavy is it on battery power in real life?
and how well does it work?
2 Does anyone else have the same crashing issue with capture one ? is there a fix?
(I also have Nikon Capture but thats even more flaky than C1)
The PC I am linking to is an i5 with 16GB or memory and a solid state drive)
3 get a battery grip to add an extra battery, meaning longer between changeovers.
a be stupid and buy Nickyermonyon (wex suggest £300)
b be cheap and get a copy off eBay for £20
So in the case of 'b' buying a cheap copy just how crap are they which are the ones to go for and which to avoid?
4 any other ideas ?
Thanks in anticipation
I'm a Canon user but here's my thoughts...
You've paid £2-3000 on a camera, for the life of me I cannot understand why you'd cut corners so heavily to even consider a third party grip, so IMO buying the genuine one (which is only ~10% of the camera's cost) isn't stupid at all as you're buying something built for the task by the original manufacturer that you know will work (3rd party stuff can be a little loose and feel quite nasty due to them effectively making copies of the plastic moulding that's not as tight a tolerance as the original grip). Having a grip with two batteries gives you around 2.5x the power due to less stress on the batteries when it comes to current draw, this will be the same for all makes/types of devices that have a 2-battery option.
Even with option 1 you'd still likely need a grip to power it all day as my guess is that the difference in power drain is neither here nor there (in my experience both USB and WIFI connections from the camera seem to be ~25% more greedy than standalone). It's worth noting though that the freedom from cables is worth the change to WIFI alone, the biggest problem with tethering with USB was regularly kicking out the cables or even slight bends in them would cause loss of connection and so the process of closing down the software, rebooting it and reconnecting would be needed and thus causing anxiety all round during the wait.
I have used an Ebay 'copy' Battery Grip on my Nikon D700 for around 4 years shooting all sorts of Events from weddings to show Jumping with no issues whatsoever. I purchased another one around 6 weeks ago for my Nikon D810 and, although I've not been using it that long, it seems fine to me. All these things do is hold a battery and connect a few buttons/dials. I'm really not sure how much there is to go wrong.
As for WiFi/Tethered, I've been using an Eyefi card for years. I've shot really busy school proms and school portrait days as well as numerous black tie events and military parties. It's cheap, uses hardly any power and has been reliable. I much prefer it to the risks of using a cable.
I would guess the eyefi card is a must for schools and I'm beginning to think the same for working with adults to, I looked round the other day to find the client on my pc messing with the white balance on the files! (even after I had given him client)
There are better solutions for WiFi, Nikons own is of course the best but, for the price, the Eyefi works brilliantly. Range is limited though works best under 6 or 7 metres. This is the Grip I bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111631623770?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
If possible you can replace the antennae on the wireless router/hub/PC for high gain ones (typically 8-12" long) in order to boost the range/strength of signal, they're like £10 each at places like Amazon and can make a noticeable difference. You can also get extension cables to lift the antennae higher / closer to other devices and out of the way of electrically 'noisy' components.
I'm baffled what on earth you're taking so many pics of in a studio? I regularly run third party batteries for around 6 hrs before a change ( and then really only,to,be sure the batt doesn't fail at a later,critical moment) catching 700 + images in full RAW.
Catalog fashion for e-commerce - min 100 to 150 items per shoot often more like 150, (centre, left, right, back & detail)
Right now we are in the pre Christmas rush so are using 2 models to speed up the changeover.
So say 150 ish items x 5 shots each = 750 (and only if every shot is perfect and right first time, however they are not).
Then sometimes a garment has different ways to wear it so its 6 or 7 shots in 4 colours means its easy to hit 1500 plus shots.
I certainly would never touch raw on these jobs as its way too slow big and unnecessary jpeg all the way.
Generally get to about 3pm before a battery change is needed
Anyone still thinking of buying a lovely looking unmarked 6 month old camera from a commercial studio?
...I agree the 36mp are probably not even a secondary consideration on this job
but yes its good to have more than you need in post production if something has gone wrong
Speed of focus, colour rendition and an extra stop or so of flexibility are important (all of which it beat my D3x at) plus a shutter that should last at around 150000 activations (not quite the 300k of the D4 but you can buy two for the same price and its lot lighter when your holding it all day).
Then I also do other work where the 36mp are useful