Image size and compression

Image size and compression

10 posts
27 May 2011
alexkidd
Photographer
alexkidd
Can we have 800px along the longest edge (height mainly)

I export for web at 800px for everything else and to stop compression have to do a purestorm export/sharpen and what's 40 pixels between friends? smiley
Posted 28 May 2011
Edited by alexkidd 27 May 2011
PUNKuate
Photographer
PUNKuate
+ a billion.

Why is it 760 px anyway, any particular reason?

Posted 28 May 2011
Glossypinklipstick
Photographer
Glossypinklipstick
I have similar problems: They just dont look punchy though.As an amateur i have managed to figure out some bits. I also export at 800. I sharpen some images but others look ok not sure why. I also figured out ticking icc profile keeps the ccolours more like the originals. I sometimes have to over contrast by 30% or so as it,s "punch" gets lost in translation somehow.Any tips pro guys: I normally save for web. change the pixels to 800: Save as jpeg: Max quality:tick Icc Profile. Anything else i can do to improve the transfer? I only have photoshop elements. What do i need to understand?
Posted 28 May 2011
alexkidd
Photographer
alexkidd
Resize, Sharpen, Export, Maintain ICC profiles and i'd say quality around 70/80, 7/8 or high depending on what app you're using should be sufficient.

However if you're uploading for instance here and your images aren't within the given dimensions it'll compress and adjust the image for you which knackers the look of it

Same thing happens with facebook and a fair few other sites also

Posted 28 May 2011
Hugh
Photographer
Hugh
Tweak the curve a bit in Canon DPP (increase mid-tone contrast, decrease highlight and shadow contrast - makes it a bit more like the film curve) - do this almost always, takes seconds. Resize to 500x750, Export from Canon DPP as TIFF. Go to Photoshop or something else, sharpen, save as JPG on maximum quality. Don't do anything else. Most of the rest is set "in camera" using Canon Picture Styles - so the RAW processor picks up the settings automatically. BW has yellow or orange filter, sharpening = 3. Colour: - I usually shoot on "Faithful" - nice muted, accurate colours. - sometimes switch to "Portrait" or "Standard" if I want more saturation.
Posted 28 May 2011
Edited by Hugh 28 May 2011
rod_m99
Photographer
rod_m99
And assuming you're shooting using the Adobe RGB ( 1998 ) colour space, don't forget to convert your web images to sRGB IEC61966-2.1.

Posted 28 May 2011
Edited by rod_m99 28 May 2011
mph
Photographer
mph
rod_m99

And assuming you're shooting using the Adobe RGB ( 1998 ) colour space, don't forget to convert your web images to sRGB IEC61966-2.1.


Although if you are shooting Raw what you are shooting in is irrelevant - the colour space is set in the conversion process. You can either convert to sRGB at that point - or later which is probably better.
Posted 28 May 2011
Edited by mph 28 May 2011
rod_m99
Photographer
rod_m99
mph
Although if you are shooting Raw what you are shooting in is irrelevant - the colour space is set in the conversion process. You can either convert to sRGB at that point - or later which is probably better.
I'd say that if you're intending to print your edited images, they need to be saved as tiffs, .psds or whatever using the RGB '98 profile; then converted to sRGB for web versions.
Posted 28 May 2011
mph
Photographer
mph
rod_m99

I'd say that if you're intending to print your edited images, they need to be saved as tiffs, .psds or whatever using the RGB '98 profile; then converted to sRGB for web versions.


Although this is what I would do for ink jet prints remember that many commercial printers expect to receive the images with the sRGB profile. frown
Posted 29 May 2011
rod_m99
Photographer
rod_m99
mph
Although this is what I would do for ink jet prints remember that many commercial printers expect to receive the images with the sRGB profile.
Good point - thanks for adding it!
Posted 29 May 2011
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