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Camera LCD does not represent what I am shooting

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David Hunt is off-line
02 November 2014 05:07
dhuntuk
Photographer

Location
United Kingdom
Surrey
Camberley

Basically, the topic says it all.

On my 300D, 10D and 40D cameras I was able to use the LCD screen to ensure I had the lighting set-up correctly. Unfortunately, the LCD on the back of my used 5D is way off. Yes, I have tried to adjust the brightness. But it does not help.

Now, I have two choices.

1. Calibrate the lighting using my old 300D (The others do not work) and my white card as normal. Then when I am happy, do a white balance on my 5D and carry on as normal. Or,

2. Calibrate a Windows tablet (I am thinking of getting a Surface) and shoot to it whilst tethered whilst setting-up the lighting.

The problem I have is that firstly, I have never used a camera whilst tethered and secondly, which software, if any do I require on a Windows machine? I assumed I can used Windows photo Viewer to check out the images.

And, does the first option make sense? I may try it on next shoot in a few weeks time.

Thank you, for reading.


Steven Jardine is off-linePlatinum Member
02 November 2014 06:13
RedChecker
Photographer
RedChecker
Location
United Kingdom
Buckinghamshire
Stoke Mandeville

The image on the screen should only be used as a rough guide and primarily to check focus/composition. The histogram should be what you're constantly looking at for checking exposure. The problem is, every camera has a different LCD which displays colour & brightness differently and the images shown are the processed JPGs (even when shooting RAW as they're embedded) and so the colours aren't always true anyway.

Unless you've got wireless, I find tethering with a cable can be a pain as the cables can get caught and wiggle loose which then means you have to reboot the capture software again, or worse still you can snag them and risk damaging something.
When you are dead, you do not know that you are dead. All of your pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you are stupid.


Profile Pictures is off-line
02 November 2014 07:47
profilepictures
Photographer
profilepictures
Location
United Kingdom
Suffolk
Bury St Edmunds

I can't remember now if the 5d had picture styles? If so you can try changing those to affect the JPEG displayed in camera. I'm pretty sure you can fool with the colours individually too but having never relied on JPEG can't recall exactly. As red says, it's a guide really, shoot raw and do as you will after the event is my approach, other than in black and white where the JPEG acts as a good light and time guide whilst working.

As for tethering, I don't know a thing as it seems a waste of time unless trying to look super slick or something? A mirror behind camera can help a model get into the groove pose wise, but I prefer just to direct really.


OldMaster is off-line
02 November 2014 08:16
OldMaster
Photographer
OldMaster
Location
United Kingdom
Hertfordshire
Harpenden

You have one choice....use the histogram and white balance particularly if you are not shooting raw. ..


w4pictures is off-line
02 November 2014 10:31
w4pictures
Photographer
w4pictures
Location
United Kingdom
London
Chiswick

I would simplify your plans.

As above, check the histogram. However, I understand the annoyance of having the back of the camera showing something very far removed from the image that finally hits your computer, especially when shooting from the hip, as it were.

Take a snap with a good range of tones, put it up on your computer screen once you are sure that it shows reasonable verisimilitude, pop the card back into the camera and adjust the camera screen brightness until it looks broadly similar.

This will give you a quick and rough idea of exposure on the fly, albeit ignoring colour and being less accurate than the histogram. But in a studio, you can dial in the colour temperature appropriate for your lights so you should never need to seek a qualitative representation of colour on the camera screen.


Matthew G is off-line
02 November 2014 12:10
MG
Photographer
MG
Location
United Kingdom
Warwickshire


The later Canons have exposure simulation on them. I don;t think the 40D had it but the 5D II and III has it and so does the 60, 70 and probably most of them over the last two or three years. Its in the menu section. Make sure it is switched on...


Paul Hodson is off-line
02 November 2014 12:23
mph
Photographer
mph
Location
United Kingdom
Cheshire
Crewe

Quote from MG
The later Canons have exposure simulation on them. I don;t think the 40D had it but the 5D II and III has it and so does the 60, 70 and probably most of them over the last two or three years. Its in the menu section. Make sure it is switched on...



but not if it is a Mk1

Amateur - happy to do TF with models with potential and enthusiasm. Website: www.mphodson.co.uk


Steven Jardine is off-linePlatinum Member
02 November 2014 12:55
RedChecker
Photographer
RedChecker
Location
United Kingdom
Buckinghamshire
Stoke Mandeville

Quote from MG
The later Canons have exposure simulation on them. I don;t think the 40D had it but the 5D II and III has it and so does the 60, 70 and probably most of them over the last two or three years. Its in the menu section. Make sure it is switched on...



Isn't that a LiveView feature?  (it has no bearing on taking normal photos)

It still doesn't account for the fact that every single LCD screen out there will have a different brightness, colour tone and reflectivity and they'll all appear different when compared side-by-side.
When you are dead, you do not know that you are dead. All of your pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you are stupid.


Laurence Power is off-line
03 November 2014 18:08
LaurenceJPower
Photographer
LaurenceJPower
Location
United Kingdom
Surrey
Esher

One possibility that I don't see as having been considered - a fault in the body, it might be worth getting the body to a repair centre to be checked over.
Laurence J. Power


Matthew G is off-line
04 November 2014 09:38
MG
Photographer
MG
Location
United Kingdom
Warwickshire


Quote from RedChecker
Isn't that a LiveView feature?  (it has no bearing on taking normal photos)

It still doesn't account for the fact that every single LCD screen out there will have a different brightness, colour tone and reflectivity and they'll all appear different when compared side-by-side.



You're quite right it is, Sorry I assumed that the op meant in liveview. Lots of people said it before but theyre only a guide. When I'm doing some of my workshops I have half a dozen people taking identical images and three or four of them get different results on their screens...



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