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 | 11 August 2012 04:27 |
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| Hugh Photographer  Location United Kingdom Dyfed Aberystwyth | I don't think the D70 works the same way. The strobist refs discuss them. As far as I understand, because it's a CCD, not a CMOS chip, you can switch it off very very fast. Nikon saved money by making a slow shutter, and getting the fast speeds by switching off the chip, and the strobist guy discovered that you could use it for fast flash. You have to cover the little pins that give all the automatic TTL flash with a bit of tape, but that's not hard. I think I'm talking myself into a D70s as a beach camera - they seems to be selling for about £100 - if I could get a 50mm for about the same it'd be worth it. |
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| It's not Fine Art just because it's in Black and White. | ||
| 11 August 2012 05:05 |
| paulcoxphotography Photographer  Location United Kingdom Greater Manchester |  Quote from BrazenDivasDoes this apply to the slightly earlier D70 Hugh? Yes. OP - any reason you don't want to use an ND filter? That's kinda what it's for. Have a look at the Joey Lawrence YouTube videos for examples of this technique being used with the Mentawi tribe. |
 | 11 August 2012 05:18 |
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| Alister Photographer  Location United Kingdom Hampshire Farnborough | Quote from Nick_Edinburgh But I find it harder to see why they can't more easily push the low end further. Do the sensors themselves have a basic physical limit to how much light they can cope with before the signal degrades in some other way? Because few people need it and you can easily get around it with ND filters. And you couldn't improve the bottom end without impacting the higher end. Get yourself a Fuji X100 for times like these. Leaf shutter, great image quality and a built in ND filter too if you need it  |
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| "If i could only shoot with one photographer ever again i would pick Alister. I've grown as a model since shooting with him. " - Mimi C | ||
| 11 August 2012 09:32 |
| AJPpics Photographer Location United Kingdom Hampshire Ash, Aldershot | Buy some good quality glass ND filters. Problem solved. No need to reinvent the wheel. Simplest is best. Alan |
 | 11 August 2012 12:59 |
| DCox Photographer  Location United Kingdom Northamptonshire | Quote from AJPpics Buy some good quality glass ND filters. Problem solved. No need to reinvent the wheel. Simplest is best. Alan +1 Lee filters are the best but tough to get hold of |
 | 11 August 2012 15:50 |
| Aesthetique Photographer  Location United Kingdom County Durham Durham | Quote from Nick_Edinburgh Excuse my stupidity, but I can't see a good solution. I was shooting last weekend in bright sunlight, using fairly powerful portable flash to overpower the ambient light. But at the same time I'd like to be opening up the aperture fully, for max bokeh. The problem of course is that even on the lowest ISO it's going to be over-exposed. Is there any solution, other than using an ND filter? BTW, I was using Nikon D800 with f1.8 85mm lens, with Ranger Quadra lights. -- Oh, and I'm sure this has been answered a thousand times before, but how the heck do you include an example image from disk in a new topic posting like this? Getting a decent saturated sky (when the sun is high in the sky - 9am to 5pm in the summer) on the other side of the sky from the sun is around f8 1/400 at ISO100 (f16 rule). This equates to f11 at 1/200, the flash sync of most digital SLRs. If you needed to open up to f2, then at ISO100 you would need to shoot at 1/6400 to get a blue sky. In order to get the shutter speed down to 1/200 you would need a 5 stop x32 ND filter. The only time I have tried to shoot midday with studio flash in sunlight, I ended up needing f16-f18 to get correct exposures at 1/200 at ISO100. Annoyingly I had left the x4 ND filter in the car that would have allowed a (less diffraction limited) f8-f9. However, obviously the sky is brighter and less blue the closer you come to where the sun is in the sky and presuming that you would be shooting contre-jour then it would need more stops to deepen the sky. Additionally your model would be receiving ambient light from in front of her so, my recommendation is a 6 stop x64 ND filter. I do not envy you trying to shoot through a 5 or 6 stop ND filter................. |
| 11 August 2012 19:29 |
| pvfb Photographer Location United Kingdom Surrey Hampton Court | Quote from Nick_Edinburgh Do the sensors themselves have a basic physical limit to how much light they can cope with before the signal degrades in some other way? In a word, yes, too may photons bring just as many problems as too few, both for the photo-receptors and the A/D converters. It's also worth noting that many CCD sensors cannot provide a true electronic shutter capability, as they don't fully buffer the sensor array output, the Truesense (formally Kodak) sensors used by Hasselblad can be "opened" electronically but rely on the shutter for "closure". To add to the list of DSLRs, the original EOS-1D had an electronic shutter CCD sensor, which I can successfully (studio) flash sync at 1/4000... cable sync with a shortened cable is required, and fast flash heads! P |
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