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Home built studio shed - blog

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Durham Photographics is off-lineSilver Member
24 May 2012 10:06
Sarge
Photographer
Sarge
Location
United Kingdom
County Durham


I am using 1" tongue and groove to make it stronger, I have never been a fan of shiplap.
The walls will be 2.1mtr high with an overall height of 3mtr at the gable ends.
The reasons for attaching it vertically is because the boards I am getting are in lengths of 4.2mtr, so halved will be 2.1mtr that I can just screw into place without any extra cutting or wastage. It won't matter too much where I place the noggins either.
Putting them horizontally will require more cuts and more wastage and the placing of the noggins will be more important too.
I will also be boarding the inside out which will give it additional support.

If that is not going to be adequate then please let me know before I start.


Frank Sinnott is off-line
24 May 2012 14:28
frankpht
Photographer
frankpht
Location
United Kingdom
London


I've not built any sheds maybe put a few gardens ones together. They're usually in a kit form. I have to look at it from a building point of view. You wouldn't lay a floor the way you're doing the shed but you're not laying a floor. If I'm honest you should be okay it's just not the way we do things around here. Not sure a building inspector would pass it. I'm trying to see in my head if I've seen something built like this and I can't. As I've said I'm basing my thoughts on traditional ways.
If you place your studs at 400mm centres then ideally you should do the same with the noggins.


Durham Photographics is off-lineSilver Member
25 May 2012 01:07
Sarge
Photographer
Sarge
Location
United Kingdom
County Durham


24/5/12

Worked a 12 hour shift today, so didnt have much time to do anything.
What i did do was place polythene sheeting underneath the frame to help keep it dry and to stop any earth touching it.
I have kept this loose to still allow for air circulation.

Back at work again today, but looking forward to the weekend (and 4 days off work) so i can finish the floor off.
I am going out to look for insulation and windows/doors, so i know what size frames to make in my walls which i hope to make a start of too.


Oscars Photostudio is off-line
25 May 2012 11:54
oscar
Photographer
oscar
Location
United Kingdom
Cheshire
Nr Warrington

Normally you should place your joists at 16" ctrs with nogins to tie them together. You may find that having them at 1m  your floor is a bit bouncy. I can't see how you are constructing the base, are you using full sheets placed under the joists or fitting panels into them?


John T Smith is off-line
25 May 2012 12:00
jon_wylie
Photographer
jon_wylie
Location
United Kingdom
Dorset
Wareham

Good work there Sarge! I stand in utter awe at anyone who can work with wood! I cannot put a nail into two pieces of wood without cocking it up!! If you want things made out of wrought iron however, I am pretty damned good
Now doing TFBD........With thanks to Miss Blaze.


Pixel Sensation is off-lineSilver Member
25 May 2012 14:23
Pixel_Sensation
Photographer
Pixel_Sensation
Location
United Kingdom
Nottinghamshire
Nottingham/Grantham

interesting Post sarge, look forward to the next update


Matt Butler is off-line
26 May 2012 04:35
MattButlerPhoto
Photographer
MattButlerPhoto
Location
United Kingdom
West Yorkshire
Bradford

If you have the same experience as me your biggest battle will be dampness. I bought a cheap dehumidifier off ebay and that sorted it. The elemants realllllly didn't want me to finish mine. Everytime I picked up a trowel or paintbrush it snowed/rained or was so windy it was unworkable. Here's hoping for good weather for your build!


Durham Photographics is off-lineSilver Member
26 May 2012 04:58
Sarge
Photographer
Sarge
Location
United Kingdom
County Durham


Thanks guys.

The boards are placed under the joists (directly onto the pillars) and are also going to be placed on top too as the floor, to create a cavity in which i am going to put insulation. It will also add loads more strength to it too, eleviating the bounciness.

The shed is being built with a polythene sheet damp proof membrain underneath it and also plastic discs (milk cartons cut up) stuck to the top of the pillars to stop rising damp. I will also put polythene sheeting all around the frame before i put the outer tongue and groove and roof into place. This T&G will go lower than the base, so any rain water will fall straight onto the ground and not run along the flooring.
I already have a dehumidifier if one is needed, but praying for dry weather for the next couple of weeks.

26/5

Bought 2 upvc double glazed windows off ebay for £60 the pair from a local couple who are having a house extension made. They are only 2 years old and in perfect condition.
I am going out today (27/5) to buy the wood for the skeleton and the insulation.


Phil H is off-lineSilver Member
26 May 2012 05:06
ph_oto
Photographer
ph_oto
Location
United Kingdom
South Yorkshire
Barnsley

A tip for the outside T&G boarding, get boarding with as deep tongues and grooves as you can get and if the boards are very dry and the weather warm when you fit them don't butt them up too tightly to each other. All natural timber swells when it's wet and softwood the most of all. It will only expand across the grain, i.e the width of the board and if it's tight when it's dry it will most likely buckle the boards when wet.
I always used to test by using two small offcuts. leave one outside in the weather or drop in oto a bucket of water and bring the other in the house. leave two or three weeks and check the difference in the width.
Wider boards will expand/contract more than narrower ones.
Check the tongues & grooves as they are often offset in wider boards, especially floorboards, when using them for cladding I would put the wider shoulder to the outside.

Only put one nail/screw across the board width fairly close (20mm) to the tongue edge when fixing, two screws could cause splitting of the board on hot summer days.

If nailing blunt the point of the nail by tapping it with the hammer, this will reduce the chance of it splitting the timber.
Working near the ends of boards it's better to drill a pilot hole for the nail/screw although the screws with the drill point are good for this.

If you have to screw into a knot, drill a hole smaller than the screw and rub either soap or a candle on the screw threads
Say what you Mean and Mean what you Say


Durham Photographics is off-lineSilver Member
26 May 2012 05:16
Sarge
Photographer
Sarge
Location
United Kingdom
County Durham


So are you saying if i use a 5" or 6" T&G board only do ONE row of screws?
I would have done 2 rows, one 20mm from the tongue and the other 20mm from the groove.



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